Look At Me Still Talking When There’s Science To Do

In Grand Rapids… thinking about Barrow (among other things)

Archive for interesting people

I’m making a note here: HUGE SUCCESS.

I was already worried about smelling… unpleasant before I knew that I had another day to wear the same clothes I put on in Barrow. The same clothes I’ve been wearing (and washing!) for ten weeks. I normally don’t care about this, but in the close quarters of a 757, I had only the comfort of my fellow passengers in mind. So I bought a t-shirt at the airport gift shop. Now I’m a whole new Jenny.

My fellow passengers were slightly more removed from my company on today’s flights since I was upgraded. It was nice. The rest of first class was filled with your usual busy business folk and one older Yacht-Club-esque couple. They held hands when we hit turbulence in Minnesota. They were very serious until Mr. Yacht Club had a beer and Mrs. Yacht Club finally got up the courage to use the airplane toilet. These people, the Yacht Clubs and the Business Folk, all looked at me with surprise and mild dislike when I showed up in their little first class village. I was disheveled as all heck and dragging along a muddy backpack covered with Atqasuk travel tags.

Not that any of that is news. Airports and airplanes are all the same. Under construction, busy, and filled with stock characters. In Minneapolis I encountered the typical American family and almost vomited at them with their four blond children and four monogrammed LL Bean rolling backpacks. Whatever. They were cute. I guess. The one kid was a snot, though. He wouldn’t even eat his chicken strips! I’m pretty sure he took a picture of me with his dad’s camera phone. I WAS eating a Berry Tie-dye Fruit by the Foot at the time. Clearly superior to his chicken strips. If I’ve learned anything this summer, it’s that Berry Tie-Dye and Strawberry are the best Fruit by the Foot flavors. Avoid “Color by the Foot” if you can- I know the rainbow coloring is enticing, but trust me.

I did enjoy watching the people during my solo adventure. The other non-stock characters on the loooong flight from Anchorage to Minneapolis were an old Martin Crane type and a Very Important On-the-Phone-Every-Second-Until-They-Say-I-Can’t-Be Gentlemen. He was a little shady. I would cast Tom Cruise in this role for Jenny Rides an Airplane: The Movie. These two fellows had a very important business deal to conduct, but unless they were talking in code, it sounded like Tom Cruise Guy was trying to lure Martin Crane Fellow into a cabin. With fish. I think the deal was about fish.

I was fortunate to have a pleasant seat partner for the long flight. She was pleasant in that we did not exchange words throughout the entire journey. I think she was disappointed that I wasn’t a young handsome single doctor. Based on her choice of reading material, the careful and becoming travel outfit she’d planned, and her mousy demeanor, I invented a life for her that involved patient saving for long cross-country flights where she can meet eligible young men and fall in love over packs of roasted nuts. She’s careful to wear something that shows off her figure but not her skin, partially because she is ever-so modest, but also because she is petite and easily catches a chill on planes. She’s also careful to leave at home the romance novels and especially-oh, the horror, if a worldly man caught her reading something so old-fashioned- her well-loved Jane Austen books. Since she can’t quite bring herself to read Cosmo without blushing, she settles for People magazine. It conveys youth, a sense of fun, an interest in pop culture, and is less stuffy than Time or Newsweek, but is by no means provocative or embarrassing. Her lonely flights take her to Alaska at least once a month, since she is playing the numbers game and everyone knows that Alaska is a virtual treasure trove of MEN.

On the next plane I sat next to a nice older man in a pink polo shirt who ordered a screwdriver and loves West Michigan! He helped me get my bag from the overhead compartment when Cranky Flight Attendant stashed it far away.

At the end of the day I was in Grand Rapids with my parents and my sister. They were okay with seeing me, I think. They thought that my feet should smell better and that I should stop telling them to reduce their carbon footprint, but they can deal.

And now for a little science.

Last year I worked at the John Ball Zoo in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Unlike the delightful Barrow sun, which I think I have mentioned on one or eight occasions, the evil Grand Rapids sun beats down with relentless ferocity. It wrenches drops of sweat from even the most stationary skin with boundless efficiency. I seem to take to monotonous jobs, and last year this meant selling birdseed glued to a stick and harnessing the excitable would-be zipline riders just before their 18 second journeys. That sun did a number on me. (Fortunately, Lake Michigan and my favorite beaches were never far away.)

One typical day, while standing and dripping beneath a broken patio umbrella, I was minding my own business, busying myself with accidentally hot-gluing my fingers together instead of managing to get the seeds on the popsicle sticks. On this day I encountered an unfortunate family who seemed to think that “tortoise” is synonymous with “female turtle”. I am under strict orders not to abandoned my broken umbrella, or I would have hastened to correct the misconception as the family walked away. The moral of this woeful tale is, of course, that education, particularly science education, could do with a little more emphasis.

I am trying to absorb as much science as possible, and am really enjoying talking with other researchers about their work. Sometimes they present their projects to the community and I can learn science without bothering to have a conversation with them!

We got up at the crack of dawn part of the morning that comes before the kitchen is open for breakfast to participate in a webinar with Elizabeth, the teacher from Florida, and Paulo, the doctoral student she is working with. Denver the Owl Guy rounded out the group, and altogether the event went well, despite some early technical difficulties. I’d not known much about Paulo’s work before, but now I have information suitable for an audience ranging in age from eight to eighty! (These people were supposedly lurking at computers around the country, listening to us talk into the speakerphone, but I have no proof of this.) The webinar is supposed to be archived here, but I didn’t check to see if it worked. I have little to no desire to relive my improvised speech about local wildlife.

On Tuesday night we took a trip into town to see a presentation at the library (!!!!). I love libraries. A researcher who worked at BASC in 2004 was in town visiting after attending NICOP and before returning home. Torsten’s research is also in the arctic, but it is in Siberia rather than North America. (He mentioned to me that the internet is a little frightening, being a somewhat permanent record of various on- and off-line activities, so I may be breaking the rules by stating his name. However, he also chided me for writing “a book” in my blog every day, and clearly I continue to be long-winded, so that’s two strikes.)

The pictures that Torsten showed from his research station at a remote location in the Lena River Delta were beautiful, though I was assured that it’s easy to take great pictures there. Some of the local vegetation was identifiable from the pictures, and it was the same old Eriophorum and Pedicularis that we have come to love here. I was rather proud of myself for noticing it (but also glad that Jeremy and Job neglected to quiz me!).

I believe that there is a presentation on Saturday, too, from one of the UTEP people. If not, there’s sure to be a presentation on something. (Not in the library, though. Rats.) Until then I will continue to learn things here and there at dinner, such as last night when I discussed reindeer herding with a young woman named Karen.

When I get tired of learning (possibly never), I can teach. Today I taught Jeremy the difference between less and fewer.

Chop bustin’ and Doc dustin’

“Now, I know you’re going to like this joke,” he said, straightening up in his chair to his best joke-delivering posture, “so don’t get offended right away.”

“Wouldn’t dream of it,” I answered, smiling and wondering if he considered that my medium-boring colored hair was actually blond and actually the target of hilarious comic genius. I guess he liked me, since the blond joke (imagine it yourself- I remember it perfectly but shan’t bother recreating it here) ended with a big women-are-smarter-than-men punchline that was obviously supposed to delight my feminine sensibilities. I suppose he imagined that I, an enlightened and ambitious college gal of the twenty-first century, would clap my hands in delight at this delicious coup in the name of girl power. “Aha!” I’d crow, jumping out of my chair, “That’s it exactly! Stupid men are the root of all our troubles! Look at my hairy legs*!”

Old Bob was on hand to greet us on the runway when we touched down in Atqasuk. His friends call him Doc, but I don’t think our 37 minutes of mostly one-sided conversation have granted me clearance to take that liberty, especially since he took care to mention that all his young friends from the highly civilized state of Alabama address him only as Sir. Besides, we have so many Bobs running around already, what’s one more to add to the list? There was an opening in the 60-65 age range in our catalog of Bobs!

He played the age card within seconds of our meeting, and we’d barely shut the doors to the cab of the pickup when he started in on his childhood of walking uphill both ways in the electricity-free state of Montana. His next card, played just as the key turned in the lock of the Atqasuk house, was Vietnam, where he did four tours of duty as a US Navy Corpsman. “Sure, I stay in the Spider Room**!” he nonchalantly declared. “I was in ‘Nam!”

This Bob belongs to Loon People and Co., though he doesn’t count himself among the list of “-ologists” that he has worked with in the prelude to what is clearly one of his favorite stories. “I’ve seen biologists, vulcanologists, geologists, ecologists, so I don’t care anymore and just call them “-ologists,” he rattled with a dismissive wave of his hand. ” ‘Course, I go to a PSYCHologist every month for my head!” he chuckled. “Not really. A little joke. But I was in ‘Nam.”

Now Doc Bob is a helicopter mechanic, which is why he spent the past week or so in the house in Atqasuk. By himself. By is own admission, the solitude is the reason that Jeremy and I found ourselves in the terrifying position of being beholden to him for cooking us dinner. One dinner of spaghetti (“I hope you don’t mind garlic! You have to make it TASTE like something!”) equals a half hour or so of after-dinner “conversation.”

It may seem callous that we had our laptops open for this part of the socialization, but we did have to email (Professor) Bob (“Ha ha! You don’t need to email me! I’m right here!”) and all (Doc) Bob required was an intermittent question or declaration of astonishment at whatever he said to keep him going for another eight minutes. It didn’t take us long to hear about his Japanese wife of thirty-six years or the baby they were adopting (since the baby’s mom, and Doc Bob’s grown son’s girlfriend, is a crack addict).

Doc Bob doesn’t smoke, drink, gamble, or cheat on his wife (“Don’t know what I live in Vegas for”), but his one vice is Dr. Pepper, in the form of two cans a day. He doesn’t like “-ologists” because they are all “vegetarians or health nuts” (“what, do you want to live forever?”) but admits that ologists are better conversationalists than marines, so all things considered he was happy to see us, with or without Dr. Pepper (we were without). The bonus was that we brought milk, his other vice, though, sigh, it should have been two percent instead of watery one percent.

Jeremy and I, as honorary ologists, were exactly the type to enjoy conversing in all his favorite subjects: milk, communism, bears, fire, helicopters, Las Vegas, trucking, soy sauce, young people, saucy grandmothers, philosophy, vegetarians, food in general, spaghetti in specific, Catholics, Mormons, the Koran, the Bible, Buddhism, criminal justice, humidity, weight loss and gain, Iraq, tourists, ice, fire fights, bayonets, volcanoes, limousines, migraines, babies, Netflix, and being a good husband (with full toilet seat training).

I was surprised that only 37 minutes had passed when he declared that we were free to do our laundry and take showers. He promptly retired to the Spider Room to play his war training video games and listen to Enya. “Music isn’t too loud, is it?” he called to Jeremy and I, who have bedrooms at the other end of the house. “I’m not deaf, I just like loud music!”

*I’m no feminist, but really, what reason would I have for shaving my legs in Alaska? I’m not wearing skirts or going to the beach… unless you count yesterday, when our late-night Fourth of July celebration involved a dip in the ocean. The only participants from GV were Job and I (both sober), though we were accompanied by several (slightly intoxicated) members of other teams.

** The aptly named Spider Room is the closed off room on the west end of the house and is the storage room for various shipments from various locations. Stowaways in the form of spiders have been known to camp out here. Last year a tarantula was discovered and delivered a nasty bite to the previous helicopter mechanic.

You folks look like Scientists!

Sometimes I am extremely pleased about successfully conducting myself through normal social situations.  I don’t usually care for small talk, but when I perceive that my conversation partner and I both leave an interaction feeling neither bemused nor put out, I am surprised and somewhat gratified.  My success must mean that I didn’t accidentally give someone a dirty look.

There are plenty of people to meet around here, and in the buildings we frequent, mostly researchers.  Evidently, when we trickle into town for food or a run to the airport, we are pretty recognizable. One gentleman, looking for some takers in a pick-up soccer game, spotted us right away at the grocery store, specifically because Jeremy and Rob hadn’t shaved since Michigan.

Two groups that we see most often around here are researchers from the University of Texas El Paso and Florida International University.  Some of these people have been around since Bob put in time in the field instead of hiring foolish lackeys like us to do it.  Since we are the only vegetation people, the nature of other projects means slightly different field seasons for some people. A few researchers are leaving already this week, and some, such as the sea ice people, were packing up as we were settling in.

Even among the Inupiat people, most of whom live in Barrow proper rather than the college-and-research region and most of whom we have yet to meet, there are some familiar faces. I always scoff at television shows that have recurring “around-town” sorts of characters, since I haven’t ever really experienced the kind of community where people like that exist. Barrow, however, is small enough that already I both recognize and have seen on several occasions people that I have yet to interact with personally, like “Tundra Tours Guy,” “Woman who works at the Office” and “Extremely Enthusiastic Blanket-Tossee.”

Among the entire population, both seasonal and permanent, though it is a small world it is a diversely representative one. I have met people from Canada, Mexico, Thailand, Costa Rica, India, Japan, Russia, Italy, France and several other places that I am probably leaving out. These people give Barrow mixed reviews; some are enthusiastic as they pack their last bag, and others seem to really enjoy the atmosphere. As for me, I like it so far, and I can see why so many people are returners, some on their fourth or fifth consecutive summer. Sure, some of them can’t quit, in practical terms, after investing so much time and money into their Big Project, but Rob’s and Jeremy’s enthusiastic nostalgia is palpable as they show Jean and I the various attractions. I can’t say no to nostalgia.

Adventures are a wonderful thing

I suspected that I would love the sunlight in the arctic circle because the constant presence of daylight would put the sun at a very advantageous angle in the sky. I suspected correctly. I prefer low suns to overhead suns. The sun has been joining us quite a bit lately. In fact, today in Atqasuk, it was hot and buggy. One layer of clothes and one layer of bug spray were all I needed.

Saturday started out as a work day but as the sun came out we stopped working and headed back to town for the first Nalukatuk of the season. Between the sun and the beach, where the festival was being held, I was pretty happy.

A Nalukatuk is held to pass out the meat and celebrate a successful whale hunt. These days are North Slope Borough holidays, so things close down and people fly in from all the next villages over. We didn’t go to the meat passing out part and we didn’t eat any whale, but this was merely the first one. This particular whale was killed about a month ago. I think there will be four more.

The party is thrown by the successful whaling crew. The part of the celebration that we saw was the blanket toss. A trampoline-sized seal skin is used to toss people into the air, and the goal is to stay on the blanket and keep standing and jumping with each toss. There are often injuries, but there is also candy being tossed by the people being tossed. Candy is exciting.

We’d had a full day that included going out for Thai food that was served by a woman from Vietnam by way of Ohio. She gave us lemon meringue desserts on the house because she liked our style. Mostly she liked Jean’s style, though Jean turned down the offer of an ear and nose massage.

Rob and I were not interested in watching a movie or going to bed before midnight, because he’d suggested taking an ATV out to Point Barrow and it sounded like a capital idea, especially given the sunlight situation. Point Barrow is about nine miles northeast of Barrow itself. Since our hotel and lab are already six miles out of Barrow, we didn’t have as far to go as all that.

We drove down a fairly narrow (maybe… i don’t know, it was less than a football field) dirt strip with the sea on either side. These Seas mean that the ocean we see on the beach every day is not really the ocean, but at the end of the point, it is. So we saw the Arctic Ocean and took pictures and kicked a piece of whale blubber and checked out the various bones adorning the beach.

Rob also instructed me in how to drive the ATV. This went about as well as could be expected.

The next morning we put Bob on a plane. Joining us for the farewell breakfast at “Pepe’s North of the Border” were a reporter and a middle school science teacher from Florida. Both were writing blogs about their experiences working with a research group from Florida International University. The former was here on her own dime and doing freelance writing for her paper, and she was getting on the same plane as Bob and going home. The latter is a part of the PolarTREC program for educators, and she has three or four more weeks of Barrow time. Both blogs are linked at the far right.

We don’t have our leader anymore, so we’ll have to be content with emailing him every other day until August when he comes to pack us up.

Remember on LOST when they met the Others?

The Kids, they said. Atqasuk is great except for The Kids.

Kids and I are not exactly strangers after two summers of day care and years of VBS crafts. Plus, I usually identify with the mentality. I didn’t care about getting older anymore after I turned eleven and had a mini-mid-life crisis at fifteen, so I am not uncomfortable with kids.

Kids are not the same as babies.

In any case, how bad could it be, right? The looks of apprehension on the faces of my experienced coworkers didn’t scare me, nor did the unconvincing “it’s not that bad”s they used to quickly amend the horror stories. So all the five-to-ten-year-old boys in the little town of Atqasuk (Population: 350ish) are out of school for the summer and have nothing to do all day. So they have free rein in the town and can get around easily on all manner of bikes and ATVs. So they’re up from noon to six a.m. So their parents don’t care what they do (and have yet to make an appearance… at all). So they chase the truck the second we come into town and have us surrounded before the front door is unlocked. So what?

We’re kind of hiding from them today, so they keep coming up and banging on the house. I can’t always tell the difference between the banging to get in and the banging that is a result of the rocks-and-bats game that is going on outside, but we covered up the windows as both a light and a children preventative measure.

They really aren’t that bad, but after a field day they are not ideal companions. Their favorite things about us so far are our radios, which make the most delightful beeping noises, and the gummy bears that Jeremy used today to bribe them to stay away. I found three of them in my right boot this morning. Gummy bears, not kids. We have yet to determine if this was a deliberate attack or a random act of mindless mischief.

One of the cleverer ones noticed my eyes right away and tried unsuccessfully to point out the peculiarity to the others. He had a long line of questioning for me, but refreshingly he stayed away from the “was your mom on crack when you were born?” route. I believe his name to be Edward.

So the gummy bear situation really could have been a hate crime. Maybe they have something against heterochromia. They do have something against white people, or their parents do, based on the colorful Inupiat racial slur their parents taught them. Of course, when they used it last year my coworkers had no idea what it meant until another white person told them, which I think is a quintessential example of the inanity of profanity. The kids didn’t really know it was bad, either. I don’t think they know much about the Inupiat language. They did throw rocks at a researcher one year, however, so you can’t be too careful.

We plan to bring popsicles back for them next time we are in Atqasuk.

Two beds cannot sustain one man.

Thanks to everyone for the messages I’ve gotten already! We had a long day, and it was nice to be able to check my email and read comments. I was also glad to be able to see a few people at breakfast yesterday before we left, even if my parents and I were late (not my fault).

I wanted to write last night after our long day of flights, but all I managed was a couple phone calls. Turns out my cell phone still worked in Fairbanks, but there was no wireless internet in our hotel. After a fairly empty airport, slightly late flight out of Grand Rapids, and a healthy trot through the Minneapolis airport (just in time to discover that we were not going to miss the flight… this plane was delayed, too), we arrived in Fairbanks in time to watch the takeoff of our flight to Barrow as we stood in the back of the plane and waited for everybody to get off already!

Since we were late (not our fault), Northwest paid to put us up in Fairbanks for the night. They kind of overkilled it, too, as each of the five of us got our own room with two double beds….. and $20 in airport vouchers (which we easily blew at the gift shop this morning).

It turned out to be nice to see Fairbanks. My professor (Bob) estimates that we saw the whole thing- in less than three hours, counting dinner. Jeremy recommended that we all “get our fill of trees… and pavement” while we had the chance.The weather was great, so we walked (on the pavement) to the restaurant. Jean and I literally had to run to keep up with Bob as we were led past GOTTSCHALK, Lingerie: Linens and Lace, Curves for Women, the creepy Fairview Motel, the library, the Fairbanks Lutheran Church, (small purple house named) La Casa Sally, a new Marriott, and ten Alaskan-themed banks to Bid Daddy’s BBQ: The Northern Most Southern BBQ!

Our cab driver (his dashboard fully equipped with a Bible, a pair of binoculars, and pink garden gloves) had reccommended Big Daddy’s, so we decided… why not? It was decorated by a fan of Chicago sports teams, but beside the White Sox banner were the obligatory Paintings of Pigs Wearing Bibs.

The restaurant sported live music, and I was debating whether or not the old couple who quite cheerfully and shamelessly took over the dance floor were regulars or out-of-towners, until I noticed “the famous” Jimmy-John (Jimmy-James? Johnny-James?) (on the harmonica) give them a prolonged weird look. (Not the same as the Look Disease.) They were from south-eastern Arizona, it turned out, and they loved to dance!… regardless of tune or musical genre.

Our Fairbanks quarters were the Captain Bartlett Inn. It was cute in a log-cabiny-and-totem-poley sort of way, though I had a hard time believing that all the signs were carved from wood out of necessity, since the inn also had a working elevator and the same ugly hotel wallpaper and carpet as everywhere else.

This morning we were up at 4:30 to catch the next plane to Barrow, and here I am. Here Jean and I are sharing a room, and we are so plumb tuckered out that we don’t even care that we haven’t had a chance to track down aluminum foil to cover the window.

Breakfast at eight! Tomorrow we might even get to go grocery shopping.