Look At Me Still Talking When There’s Science To Do
In Grand Rapids… thinking about Barrow (among other things)Archive for interesting people
I’m making a note here: HUGE SUCCESS.
I was already worried about smelling… unpleasant before I knew that I had another day to wear the same clothes I put on in Barrow. The same clothes I’ve been wearing (and washing!) for ten weeks. I normally don’t care about this, but in the close quarters of a 757, I had only the comfort of my fellow passengers in mind. So I bought a t-shirt at the airport gift shop. Now I’m a whole new Jenny.
My fellow passengers were slightly more removed from my company on today’s flights since I was upgraded. It was nice. The rest of first class was filled with your usual busy business folk and one older Yacht-Club-esque couple. They held hands when we hit turbulence in Minnesota. They were very serious until Mr. Yacht Club had a beer and Mrs. Yacht Club finally got up the courage to use the airplane toilet. These people, the Yacht Clubs and the Business Folk, all looked at me with surprise and mild dislike when I showed up in their little first class village. I was disheveled as all heck and dragging along a muddy backpack covered with Atqasuk travel tags.
Not that any of that is news. Airports and airplanes are all the same. Under construction, busy, and filled with stock characters. In Minneapolis I encountered the typical American family and almost vomited at them with their four blond children and four monogrammed LL Bean rolling backpacks. Whatever. They were cute. I guess. The one kid was a snot, though. He wouldn’t even eat his chicken strips! I’m pretty sure he took a picture of me with his dad’s camera phone. I WAS eating a Berry Tie-dye Fruit by the Foot at the time. Clearly superior to his chicken strips. If I’ve learned anything this summer, it’s that Berry Tie-Dye and Strawberry are the best Fruit by the Foot flavors. Avoid “Color by the Foot” if you can- I know the rainbow coloring is enticing, but trust me.
I did enjoy watching the people during my solo adventure. The other non-stock characters on the loooong flight from Anchorage to Minneapolis were an old Martin Crane type and a Very Important On-the-Phone-Every-Second-Until-They-Say-I-Can’t-Be Gentlemen. He was a little shady. I would cast Tom Cruise in this role for Jenny Rides an Airplane: The Movie. These two fellows had a very important business deal to conduct, but unless they were talking in code, it sounded like Tom Cruise Guy was trying to lure Martin Crane Fellow into a cabin. With fish. I think the deal was about fish.
I was fortunate to have a pleasant seat partner for the long flight. She was pleasant in that we did not exchange words throughout the entire journey. I think she was disappointed that I wasn’t a young handsome single doctor. Based on her choice of reading material, the careful and becoming travel outfit she’d planned, and her mousy demeanor, I invented a life for her that involved patient saving for long cross-country flights where she can meet eligible young men and fall in love over packs of roasted nuts. She’s careful to wear something that shows off her figure but not her skin, partially because she is ever-so modest, but also because she is petite and easily catches a chill on planes. She’s also careful to leave at home the romance novels and especially-oh, the horror, if a worldly man caught her reading something so old-fashioned- her well-loved Jane Austen books. Since she can’t quite bring herself to read Cosmo without blushing, she settles for People magazine. It conveys youth, a sense of fun, an interest in pop culture, and is less stuffy than Time or Newsweek, but is by no means provocative or embarrassing. Her lonely flights take her to Alaska at least once a month, since she is playing the numbers game and everyone knows that Alaska is a virtual treasure trove of MEN.
On the next plane I sat next to a nice older man in a pink polo shirt who ordered a screwdriver and loves West Michigan! He helped me get my bag from the overhead compartment when Cranky Flight Attendant stashed it far away.
At the end of the day I was in Grand Rapids with my parents and my sister. They were okay with seeing me, I think. They thought that my feet should smell better and that I should stop telling them to reduce their carbon footprint, but they can deal.
Chop bustin’ and Doc dustin’
“Now, I know you’re going to like this joke,” he said, straightening up in his chair to his best joke-delivering posture, “so don’t get offended right away.”
“Wouldn’t dream of it,” I answered, smiling and wondering if he considered that my medium-boring colored hair was actually blond and actually the target of hilarious comic genius. I guess he liked me, since the blond joke (imagine it yourself- I remember it perfectly but shan’t bother recreating it here) ended with a big women-are-smarter-than-men punchline that was obviously supposed to delight my feminine sensibilities. I suppose he imagined that I, an enlightened and ambitious college gal of the twenty-first century, would clap my hands in delight at this delicious coup in the name of girl power. “Aha!” I’d crow, jumping out of my chair, “That’s it exactly! Stupid men are the root of all our troubles! Look at my hairy legs*!”
Old Bob was on hand to greet us on the runway when we touched down in Atqasuk. His friends call him Doc, but I don’t think our 37 minutes of mostly one-sided conversation have granted me clearance to take that liberty, especially since he took care to mention that all his young friends from the highly civilized state of Alabama address him only as Sir. Besides, we have so many Bobs running around already, what’s one more to add to the list? There was an opening in the 60-65 age range in our catalog of Bobs!
He played the age card within seconds of our meeting, and we’d barely shut the doors to the cab of the pickup when he started in on his childhood of walking uphill both ways in the electricity-free state of Montana. His next card, played just as the key turned in the lock of the Atqasuk house, was Vietnam, where he did four tours of duty as a US Navy Corpsman. “Sure, I stay in the Spider Room**!” he nonchalantly declared. “I was in ‘Nam!”
This Bob belongs to Loon People and Co., though he doesn’t count himself among the list of “-ologists” that he has worked with in the prelude to what is clearly one of his favorite stories. “I’ve seen biologists, vulcanologists, geologists, ecologists, so I don’t care anymore and just call them “-ologists,” he rattled with a dismissive wave of his hand. ” ‘Course, I go to a PSYCHologist every month for my head!” he chuckled. “Not really. A little joke. But I was in ‘Nam.”
Now Doc Bob is a helicopter mechanic, which is why he spent the past week or so in the house in Atqasuk. By himself. By is own admission, the solitude is the reason that Jeremy and I found ourselves in the terrifying position of being beholden to him for cooking us dinner. One dinner of spaghetti (“I hope you don’t mind garlic! You have to make it TASTE like something!”) equals a half hour or so of after-dinner “conversation.”
It may seem callous that we had our laptops open for this part of the socialization, but we did have to email (Professor) Bob (“Ha ha! You don’t need to email me! I’m right here!”) and all (Doc) Bob required was an intermittent question or declaration of astonishment at whatever he said to keep him going for another eight minutes. It didn’t take us long to hear about his Japanese wife of thirty-six years or the baby they were adopting (since the baby’s mom, and Doc Bob’s grown son’s girlfriend, is a crack addict).
Doc Bob doesn’t smoke, drink, gamble, or cheat on his wife (“Don’t know what I live in Vegas for”), but his one vice is Dr. Pepper, in the form of two cans a day. He doesn’t like “-ologists” because they are all “vegetarians or health nuts” (“what, do you want to live forever?”) but admits that ologists are better conversationalists than marines, so all things considered he was happy to see us, with or without Dr. Pepper (we were without). The bonus was that we brought milk, his other vice, though, sigh, it should have been two percent instead of watery one percent.
Jeremy and I, as honorary ologists, were exactly the type to enjoy conversing in all his favorite subjects: milk, communism, bears, fire, helicopters, Las Vegas, trucking, soy sauce, young people, saucy grandmothers, philosophy, vegetarians, food in general, spaghetti in specific, Catholics, Mormons, the Koran, the Bible, Buddhism, criminal justice, humidity, weight loss and gain, Iraq, tourists, ice, fire fights, bayonets, volcanoes, limousines, migraines, babies, Netflix, and being a good husband (with full toilet seat training).
I was surprised that only 37 minutes had passed when he declared that we were free to do our laundry and take showers. He promptly retired to the Spider Room to play his war training video games and listen to Enya. “Music isn’t too loud, is it?” he called to Jeremy and I, who have bedrooms at the other end of the house. “I’m not deaf, I just like loud music!”
*I’m no feminist, but really, what reason would I have for shaving my legs in Alaska? I’m not wearing skirts or going to the beach… unless you count yesterday, when our late-night Fourth of July celebration involved a dip in the ocean. The only participants from GV were Job and I (both sober), though we were accompanied by several (slightly intoxicated) members of other teams.
** The aptly named Spider Room is the closed off room on the west end of the house and is the storage room for various shipments from various locations. Stowaways in the form of spiders have been known to camp out here. Last year a tarantula was discovered and delivered a nasty bite to the previous helicopter mechanic.
Remember on LOST when they met the Others?
The Kids, they said. Atqasuk is great except for The Kids.
Kids and I are not exactly strangers after two summers of day care and years of VBS crafts. Plus, I usually identify with the mentality. I didn’t care about getting older anymore after I turned eleven and had a mini-mid-life crisis at fifteen, so I am not uncomfortable with kids.
Kids are not the same as babies.
In any case, how bad could it be, right? The looks of apprehension on the faces of my experienced coworkers didn’t scare me, nor did the unconvincing “it’s not that bad”s they used to quickly amend the horror stories. So all the five-to-ten-year-old boys in the little town of Atqasuk (Population: 350ish) are out of school for the summer and have nothing to do all day. So they have free rein in the town and can get around easily on all manner of bikes and ATVs. So they’re up from noon to six a.m. So their parents don’t care what they do (and have yet to make an appearance… at all). So they chase the truck the second we come into town and have us surrounded before the front door is unlocked. So what?
We’re kind of hiding from them today, so they keep coming up and banging on the house. I can’t always tell the difference between the banging to get in and the banging that is a result of the rocks-and-bats game that is going on outside, but we covered up the windows as both a light and a children preventative measure.
They really aren’t that bad, but after a field day they are not ideal companions. Their favorite things about us so far are our radios, which make the most delightful beeping noises, and the gummy bears that Jeremy used today to bribe them to stay away. I found three of them in my right boot this morning. Gummy bears, not kids. We have yet to determine if this was a deliberate attack or a random act of mindless mischief.
One of the cleverer ones noticed my eyes right away and tried unsuccessfully to point out the peculiarity to the others. He had a long line of questioning for me, but refreshingly he stayed away from the “was your mom on crack when you were born?” route. I believe his name to be Edward.
So the gummy bear situation really could have been a hate crime. Maybe they have something against heterochromia. They do have something against white people, or their parents do, based on the colorful Inupiat racial slur their parents taught them. Of course, when they used it last year my coworkers had no idea what it meant until another white person told them, which I think is a quintessential example of the inanity of profanity. The kids didn’t really know it was bad, either. I don’t think they know much about the Inupiat language. They did throw rocks at a researcher one year, however, so you can’t be too careful.
We plan to bring popsicles back for them next time we are in Atqasuk.
Two beds cannot sustain one man.
Thanks to everyone for the messages I’ve gotten already! We had a long day, and it was nice to be able to check my email and read comments. I was also glad to be able to see a few people at breakfast yesterday before we left, even if my parents and I were late (not my fault).
I wanted to write last night after our long day of flights, but all I managed was a couple phone calls. Turns out my cell phone still worked in Fairbanks, but there was no wireless internet in our hotel. After a fairly empty airport, slightly late flight out of Grand Rapids, and a healthy trot through the Minneapolis airport (just in time to discover that we were not going to miss the flight… this plane was delayed, too), we arrived in Fairbanks in time to watch the takeoff of our flight to Barrow as we stood in the back of the plane and waited for everybody to get off already!
Since we were late (not our fault), Northwest paid to put us up in Fairbanks for the night. They kind of overkilled it, too, as each of the five of us got our own room with two double beds….. and $20 in airport vouchers (which we easily blew at the gift shop this morning).
It turned out to be nice to see Fairbanks. My professor (Bob) estimates that we saw the whole thing- in less than three hours, counting dinner. Jeremy recommended that we all “get our fill of trees… and pavement” while we had the chance.The weather was great, so we walked (on the pavement) to the restaurant. Jean and I literally had to run to keep up with Bob as we were led past GOTTSCHALK, Lingerie: Linens and Lace, Curves for Women, the creepy Fairview Motel, the library, the Fairbanks Lutheran Church, (small purple house named) La Casa Sally, a new Marriott, and ten Alaskan-themed banks to Bid Daddy’s BBQ: The Northern Most Southern BBQ!
Our cab driver (his dashboard fully equipped with a Bible, a pair of binoculars, and pink garden gloves) had reccommended Big Daddy’s, so we decided… why not? It was decorated by a fan of Chicago sports teams, but beside the White Sox banner were the obligatory Paintings of Pigs Wearing Bibs.
The restaurant sported live music, and I was debating whether or not the old couple who quite cheerfully and shamelessly took over the dance floor were regulars or out-of-towners, until I noticed “the famous” Jimmy-John (Jimmy-James? Johnny-James?) (on the harmonica) give them a prolonged weird look. (Not the same as the Look Disease.) They were from south-eastern Arizona, it turned out, and they loved to dance!… regardless of tune or musical genre.
Our Fairbanks quarters were the Captain Bartlett Inn. It was cute in a log-cabiny-and-totem-poley sort of way, though I had a hard time believing that all the signs were carved from wood out of necessity, since the inn also had a working elevator and the same ugly hotel wallpaper and carpet as everywhere else.
This morning we were up at 4:30 to catch the next plane to Barrow, and here I am. Here Jean and I are sharing a room, and we are so plumb tuckered out that we don’t even care that we haven’t had a chance to track down aluminum foil to cover the window.
Breakfast at eight! Tomorrow we might even get to go grocery shopping.