Look At Me Still Talking When There’s Science To Do

In Grand Rapids… thinking about Barrow (among other things)

Archive for July, 2008

Who is this Craig that will save us?

Despite my determined cheeriness and unwavering goodwill towards lovely Barrow, we have had a few snags, a snarl or two, and at least one conundrum. Though King Jeremy of Scienceland tries his best to keep our little family together, we are more or less orphans without Bob. He has all the sweet hookups- and a killer slow headshake (suitable for belittling and teaching).

Bob won’t be here until our last week, but on Sunday we got Craig, the next best thing. Every time something* has gone awry lately, someone inevitably says sagely, “Ahh,  but Craig is coming soon,” and the tension is palpably lifted.

Jean and I, wide-eyed and yet unaquainted with the mythical Craig, lapped up the stories fed to us by the initiated members of the community. Craig is ten feet tall and swift as the wind. Craig can shoot lightning bolts from his fingertips. Craig will eliminate all our problems with a twitch of his pinky finger.

Craig is the UTEP PI and great friend of Bob (equally mythical, if you listen to Jobby). When we met him on Sunday (at his Thai food birthday party), the stories proved to be true, and I count myself lucky that I could be in his presence.

Since Craig will only use his powers for good, not personal gain or frivolity, he did not twitch his pinky finger and take away the frigid winds that brought snow from the ocean today. The Science that goes on all around me had to continue to go on… and go on it did, despite the disagreeable weather. Jeremy and I, Scince Snobs that we are, looked down our noses from our Biomass Tower and pitied the poor souls who were forced to work outdoors today. We feel sorriest for Paulo and Jose, who will be out in the field from 11 am until midnight and midnight to 8 am, respectively, though we spared some pity for the other half of the GVSU team as well. Only those who complete 14 point frames in six hours may have the privilege of pulling lichens from mosses in the lab.

There is more biomass to sort before we call it a night, but now I must go to a talk to learn how to successfully live “green-ish.” Frank’s house in Vermont is off the grid- and solar powered!

Don’t you want to know how we keep starting fires?

I’ve heard from my source at Michigan State University that a “riot” technically requires only four people. I don’t know what they call it if there are fewer than four people. By now you will have added up the members of my team: Jenny + Jean + Jeremy + Rob = Tundra Riot. A charming picture, is it not?

Today we were incredibly efficient in the field. More so than usual, if you can believe that. Jeremy and I did 14 plots worth of point framing, which equals 1400 lines of data, each containing between 2 and 5 measurements. We were almost deterred by the Hiccup Incident of Julian Day 210, but Earnest Science persevered. My writing muscles were not cramped enough for me to complain about them, and Jeremy’s voice was not quite hoarse enough for him to complain about that. Jean and Rob each finished making phenological observations for their entire sites. (Not bad.)

We were so thirsty and proud after our six hours of talking and writing and phenologing that we mixed up eight cans of concentrated grape juice in the hut after our field day. Strange thing though, after mixing it up we didn’t really want any. In fact, I don’t know for sure, but I think that we probably won’t want any Science Juice for about two weeks. Maybe sixteen days or so. Let’s hope that it won’t make us sick by then.

The weather outside is frightful. It’s a rainstorm that would seem commonplace in Michigan, but I haven’t seen such a thing here yet. This does not bode well.

I’m afraid I just ‘blue’ myself.

It’s just one birthday after another around here, with all the accompanying shenanigans. Last night the frosting on the cake was blue, and I still have blue on my hands.  Yeah. I eat my cake with my hands. It was a birthday party, not High Tea with the Queen!

This was a REAL birthday party- for Denver the owl guy, in fact. He is going home to Montana on Monday, and we wish him well.

I also had the pleasure of accompanying a few UTEP kids to town to watch the boxing match with a heap of Mexicans. Adrian offered a pity invitation, and I called his bluff and accepted. He was surprised for me to show interest, as were Sandra and Sergio, who think I am antisocial. Of course, I was the only non-Spanish speaker, so “social” proved to be difficult. I did a lot of smiling and nodding. It was nice. I like blood. And fights. And halibut soup- I pretended that it wasn’t hotter than I’m used to and they pretended to believe me. It was very good though. A nice change from Asian food every day.

Today we had the pleasure of yet another birthday party in town. This party was for Craig, the UTEP PI. The persons who protested on this blog about the “birthday” I had last week (when my birthday is of course in November) would be correct to suspect that Craig did not know that his “birthday” was today. They told him stories about the various other “birthdays” that have been celebrated this summer… the most successful being that of a German gentlemen who reportedly turned red as a lobster…!

Our 24 hour trip to Atqasuk proved a great success, though the timeliness of the airplane (as usual) was less than stellar. Fortunately Jeremy and I had company while we sat at the “airport” and waited. A baby caribou and its mother had a grand time checking out the facility.

Fortunately the blue teeth and lips that accompanied the blue hands had disappeared by the time Sergio and I finished inventing new words with the refrigerator magnets.  I do have my dignity.

Could I BE wearing any more clothes?

I’ve been wearing matching socks for a whole six weeks now. Normally I have more important things to do than make sure that both socks I grab from my jumbly sock drawer are the same color or pattern (though I do try to match height and weight, for reasons of sensory symmetry). In Alaska my dedication to Earnest Science has prevailed, and I wear matching footwear.

The rest of my wardrobe tends to be rather more brightly colorful than that of my companions, as I am outfitted with yellow, periwinkle, and green while the rest of the team wears black, navy, or deep red. The crayon-print pajama pants and star-print hat in particular have earned comments, but my colleagues promise that they are not embarrassed to be seen with me…

In any case, (for me) gearing up for the field is usually a matter of deciding what three or four layers to put on- in order of how big they are and with no particular regard to color combinations. Today was no exception, though it was not the chilly Barrow field I was anticipating, but the less-than-24-hours Aqasuk trip that Jeremy and I were attempting. We were trying to go light on luggage but I was fearful of freakishly cold wind, so I just wore my field gear onto the plane.

Fortunately, Atqasuk was warm and sunny, and the rain on the horizon went around us. So did the caribou, though he was dreadfully curious- we could tell. All our field work was done after we got out to the field at three and before we were back in at nine. It would take five field days of suffering for those chumps at the Barrow site to finish everything-HA.

Oh yeah, and I’m sick. The head-cold variety. It’s not too bad, on account of the fact that I am incredibly tough. Don’t tell the rest of the team that I’m feeling poorly or they will think I’m weak- when really, it was THEY who said, “Oh, Jenny, poor Jenny, don’t you want to stay in from the field today? You look ever so ill. A day off would do you good- and of course we would stay in with you… for safety.”

I won’t let them have the satisfaction!

…and there was much rejoicing.

I really really ought to stop writing posts at the end of pleasant days. My unending admiration for this adventure (along with the overly-positive vocabulary I use to describe it) is liable to make me ill, should I ever re-read anything I’ve written (and of course I do, that’s the whole point!).

That being said, today was probably my third (or fourth?) favorite day of the season so far. Though it was a dreaded growth measure day, we were filled with optimism and good cheer at the beginning of the day due to A.) the GLORIOUS* weather and B.) the magic hour of 5:00 p.m. that was rapidly approaching (to be explained in due course).

BASC, our trusty logistics provider, has seen fit to throw us one curve ball after another lately. We attribute this to their poor money managing rather than any blunder we have committed for which they could secretly (or not so secretly) be punishing us.

To begin with, the beloved blue truck was sneakily removed from our list of assets through a short series of favors that we warily agreed to comply with. (Bob told us to be helpful!) As our access to the truck grew less, so did our goodwill towards BASC, those sneaks! We harbored no ill will toward the Enemy**, however, as their part in the truck fiasco was quite inadvertent. The replacement trucks we were occasionally offered (they were trying to humor us, no doubt) included a run-down number plagued with a gnome stowaway who’d locked himself in- or so we assumed from the incessant banging noises emanating from the glove box region.

We also were required to abandon Dario’s hotel in favor of a hut that is rented by BASC. It does make sense to save over ten thousand dollars a month by placing six of us in the hut instead of in costly hotel rooms, but as a result, we are forced to live with strangers! That is a lie, they’re not strangers at all, they’re Gilda and Sandra from UTEP, both quite harmless and charming girls. You can imagine how pleased Rob and Jeremy are to have four new female roommates***! The hut, though not without its challenges, has several advantages as well, and it should suffice. The chief difference for me is that my Favourite Walk is now a little longer- certainly no harm in that.

In any case, at 5:00pm today the Enemy was long gone from Barrow and the truck was relinquished to us at long last. This reunion was not without its share of mishaps, since, to begin with, the keys were left behind three separate locked doors in the office, but eventually it was quite a happy ending. We celebrated with Thai food and a trip to the point. Jean hadn’t had a chance to go yet, and the clear sky and sun-sink (not setting yet, but almost!) held out for the whole GLORIOUS trip.

*This is an example of “overly-positive vocabulary.”

**The gentlemen from the BBC were the Enemy, since they were given our truck when theirs failed to work. Who could hate gentlemen from the BBC? They were filming snowy owls for “Frozen Planet,” and EVERYONE loves snowy owls.

***They began immediately on the “No Girls Allowed” sign for their bedroom.

You don’t like Dactylinia? You’re fired.

The most breathtaking and awe-inducing landscapes are usually the ones with dramatic or intriguing changes in elevation. My unofficial observations have led me to believe that this is partially because they photograph well. After six weeks in Flat Land, the team has taken plenty of photos that are quite level, but the gently sloping tundra in the background makes it look as though we can’t be bothered to hold a camera parallel to the horizon. Either way, some would say that we are spending our summers in the most boring landscape on the planet. “Some” have clearly not visited Nebraska. (Nor have I, but I imagine it to be boring.)

We were unceremoniously deposited in this environment on our first field day a month and a half ago. Professor Bob sat us down on the tundra like the little Kindergarten Scientists we were an plucked something (seemingly at random) from the field. “What’s this?” he asked, in the first of hundreds of purposefully shaming questions.

On that first day the tundra looked like it deserved the “boring” label. Interested as I was in all the new and captivating things to look at, a glance at the early-season tundra gave all impressions of a completely monotone and utterly uninteresting field. Plus, the lichens were ugly.

Then, of course, we straight away began spending all our time looking at that same uninteresting, monotone field. The plants became easily distinguishable from one another, and as the season progressed the colors became more different and vibrant as well, particularly in Atqasuk.

Now I quite enjoy the tundra, and, though I dearly love trees, I find the landscape perfectly satisfactory. Certain plants, like BETULA NANA, which I HATE, I could do without, but my favorites (and UNfavorites) are determined more by my personal experiences with them than by any aesthetic value they may or may not have. (For example, I like Eriophorum angustifolium the most because it was the first one I learned from my site, but Salix rotundafolia, the first Barrow plant I learned, can go jump off a cliff for all I care. It is dreadfully confusing. Pedicularus and Ranunculus I enjoy as well [who wouldn't?] but Dupontia and I have a love-hate relationship… that tricky tricky grass.)

I guess my summer should be called Tundra Appreciation for Beginners. I am always amused when we are recording growth measures and we start exclaiming at the dramatic heights the plants are reaching. “Oh boy, this is a big one- eleven point four centimeters!”

Explaining that the richly diverse tundra is really quite a nice place to spend time rather than a barren and frigid wasteland has been on the blog back-burner for some weeks now, but it is suitable that I choose to write about it today, because I am again in a lovely mood, due (in part) to the weather! After the week that included snow in July, a first for me, we were treated to more of my favorite kind of sunshine today… with just the right amount of fog!

The weather, compounded with the fact that the ice blew in again last night, makes for the perfect picturesque opportunity to jump in the ocean. Two girls from San Diego State and a few newcomers took advantage of this, and I accompanied as photographer. Having now watched other people participate in this charming experience, I am moderately embarrassed about how foolish I certainly looked (and how loudly I screamed). Fortunately, the spectators were nice people, though Denver in particular enjoys watching and capturing on camera the suffering of the young researchers.

Oh, and Bob would be quite proud of me for abandoning my initial aversion to lichens- I can now successfully identify approximately half a dozen of them, thanks to the tutelage of Jeremy. (Not bad for the person who spends most of her time with lichens scribbling numbers on a piece of paper.) They seem friendly- more so than the standoffish mosses, anyway.

Unfortunately, Bob would also shake his head in exasperation at my childish delight in… everything.

Then why didn’t you list that among our assests in the first place?

Rob and I played one little game of Crazy Hide and Seek, and that was the basis for our new reputation as the Weird Kids. Just because I may have been crawling on my belly and Rob may have been acting like a crab, Paulo thinks we are weird. He labeled Jean as half weird and Jeremy as the normal one, but Jeremy, as we all know, is boring, so no surprise there.

In any case, the Plant People, as some chose to call us, do seem fairly weird when we sit and sort and sort and sort. I mentioned that we had help one day, and Frank the PolarTREC teacher posted pictures from his plant experience. He compared sorting the plants to sifting through gravel, which they have to do to retrieve small items. I put him on my blogroll, and he posted an unflattering picture of me here.

Tonight we went to another talk at the heritage center. Most of the talks are on Saturday afternoons, but we are usually in Atqasuk on Saturday afternoons, so the occasional Tuesday night talk is more feasible for us to attend. This one was ok, but I almost fell asleep. No pictures! The other Tuesday night one was much better.

It’s kind of depressing to be getting to know people for three months… or three weeks… or three days!… and then go back to the normal world in the fall. I don’t like to say goodbye to people. I was happy to run into an unexpected Loon Person the other day, because it made me think that maybe this won’t be the only time we see these new acquaintances.  I also don’t like claiming people as friends without checking with them first, but I think I made a few friends so far… right, Hiroki?

Jean and I ventured out with some UTEP people for the talk and for a late dinner. Everyone eats dinner late except us, because we eat at the cafeteria more than the rest and it closes at 7. I had a nice bowl of soup and hoped that I wasn’t really getting sick, as I suspect I might be.  The past two days in the field were fairly miserable- cold I can handle, but the constant sleet, rain, and snow make even the Write-in-the-Rain paper finicky and greatly reduces dexterity. Our chances for gold in the Tandem Point Frame Olympics seem much more dim when Jeremy is too cold to say the right words and my numb fingers write slowly.

Fortunately we were able to keep field time down to 5 hours the past couple days, and Jeremy and I are STILL ahead of the game, busting out seven or eight point frames when only six are scheduled. Go us. This, of course, does not mean that we can skip a field day. If you get done early, why not do MORE science?

Why not indeed! I love science. Maybe just Barrow science, though- I’ve never tried any other kinds.

We sleep 18 hours but we always party 24.

The plane was only two hours late, so we had time to clean up the house and eat four Otter Pops each. Maybe only Jean and I did that. Rob just ate some more of the seventeen tons of noodles that were still in the fridge.

Should we be worried that though the airline is careful to weigh every bag and ask each passenger’s weight before flights from Barrow to Atqasuk… the return flights involve no scales, only an “all aboard?”

Should we be particularly worried when we are returning with our luggage stuffed with Important Science Items fossils that drastically alter the weights that were carefully recorded on our bags in Barrow?

Perhaps we should. Jean complained of motion sickness on the flight. We may have thrown the plane off-kilter. My favorite team of pilots was flying us today. Sarah never fails to smile and ask about our plots, which she reported that she spotted from the air. I want to learn to fly a plane.

We finally got ourselves and our thousand pounds of stuff into the lab, where we ran to check the internet. The good news is: it was still there! One never knows what could happen if one is away from the internet for thirty hours, as we were when we were in the rain-prison of Atqasuk. There is usually important correspondence to be waiting for, or at the very least someone somewhere has posted something that one simply MUST read or view immediately.

The next orders of business were: a hearty greeting from our UTEP neighbors who surely missed us terribly, and a half-hearted search for Jeremy, who had managed to wander off within minutes of arrival. When all parties were accounted for, we set off for Northern Lights, a local eatery that we hadn’t visited since our first night in Barrow. It was pleasant to reminisce about something; I think five weeks is a long enough time for an event to become fair game for nostalgia, don’t you?

One member of the UTEP crew, Adrian, was kind enough to inform the wait staff that we were celebrating my birthday. He must have known that I would be much too modest to mention it myself. As a result, I was given Birthday Soup and I decreed that the Birthday Disco Ball be lighted, and the dinner party progressed rather as well as any other birthday party I’ve attended lately.

Our night without internet last night was very pleasant, actually. We got some fossil sorting (no mammoth bones, unfortunately…) and picture drawing done, and Jean volunteered to watch The Princess Bride with me. It is my most favourite movie. The title is getting tiresome, however, as people continue to mistakenly think that I mean The Princess Diaries, which I most emphatically do NOT. I’m thinking of renaming The Princess Bride something easy and memorable like MOVIE!, as in:

Person: Hey, Jenny, what’s your favorite movie?

Jenny: Oh, it’s MOVIE!… have you ever seen it?

Person: Why yes, I have, and I fully understand that it is not about the woes of ugly American teenage girls, nor was it made by Disney.

Jenny: Quite right. Cheerio!

We must remember to send a thank-you rock.

The weary researchers trudged through the edge of town to the turquoise house, mentally bracing themselves for the impact. They had been warned that morning of the imminent arrival of five more persons and fully expected all the chaos that would entail.  Should the five terrible strangers somehow not have made it to the little town, the Village Children were sure to be camped out in wait.  Either circumstance was sure to be a hindrance to the the dinner the four team members felt they truly deserved. After all, that day’s field work had taken a whopping four-point-five hours, and nothing short of utter comfort would do.

In any case, today was 200 day and yesterday was halfway day, and celebrations were demanded. Last night the team was treated to a lovely instant cheesecake that was NOT designated for sharing, sorry Kids.  We managed to fit in some work to placate Bob (our PI), but he is at a hospital in MI with what is hopefully by now his new daughter instead of his very pregnant wife, so he’d hardly have noticed anyway.

Jean and Rob cooked every gosh-darn box of pasta in the entire house in an effort to lull the newcomers into a false sense of security. We rather expected that one of the four people who did indeed show up sometime between noon and five to be named Ben, as we’d been receiving phone calls for “Ben” since the moment we entered the house on Wednesday. Alas, our logic was thwarted, and though I didn’t bother to remember any of the names of these people, none of them were called Ben. A bit sad, really, as he seemed to be missing, perhaps permanently. We’d imagined several scenarios that would account for his absence and his empty orange sleeping bed that has been occupying Bedroom Two this week, and we were slightly anxious that he be found, stranger though he was. (Not to worry, he’s here now and he was never really lost. We saw the tiny plane fly in from Fairbanks and met him and the pilot trying to usurp our truck when we got back. I kind of hate to ruin the suspense, but this story is getting dreadfully dull and I honestly don’t see myself bothering to wrap up the Ben storyline in the next few paragraphs.)

As the dinner hour ended the team used their incredibly efficient dynamic and admirably effortless intuition to signal to each other to make their escape. The most effective bit was when Jeremy said, “We will be leaving in five minutes.” The newcomers, false sense of security established, were washing up the dishes, just like we planned, and we stole out of the house like a team of cat burglars. There is no use keeping up the cat burglar metaphor either, as we did not plan to take any of their things. We didn’t even want to touch any of their things. They probably have cooties.

Seriously though, you can’t imagine the amount of stuff piled in the living room. We can’t even sit on the couches, much less see the TV, much LESS watch one of the five VHS tapes that are the only source of video entertainment.

But never mind that, watching videos hardly counts as a 200 day celebration. Instead we lightened our packs, shed a bit of field gear, and wandered away to enjoy the weather that was much nearer to that which Jeremy promised. The fishing hole proved a fruitless and fishless diversion, so we instead walked along the Meade River.

Jeremy had prepared for just such an occasion by replacing his field notebooks with hammers. The banks of the river were dripping with broken rocks, some of which yielded mildly interesting fossils. Jenny had unwittingly prepared for just such an occasion by nearly emptying her usually full and heavy backpack.

Long story longer, the team celebrated 200 day by bringing 200 rocks back to the house. Maybe 200 pounds or rocks. Certainly 200 fossils, as some rocks helpfully contained more than one leaf picture.  Mostly though, they are just rocks. Dozens of rocks. It is doubtful we can get even half of them back to Barrow, much less to Michigan. Finding the fossils was a strange and fast-acting addiction. We hope that we will be cured by tomorrow- both of the addiction and of the sore backs we sustained lugging all that junk back to the house.

Sky blue. Like the sky. With jet fighters and lightning.

In other news, Jeremy and his grandiose schemes continue to disappoint. This time he PROMISED that Atqasuk would be magical, warm and fun… I believe the word he used was “phantasmical”… and it rained all day yesterday. It rained on our luggage, it rained on the truck, it rained on our food boxes, it rained on the airplane, and it rained on the other truck. The trucks entered the rainstorm covered in dust, and my new Earnest Science skills lead me to believe that this is how they ended up covered in mud. The new box of Otter Pops got a little muddy. (We got a hot tip from a rogue Loon Person that The Kids had managed to steal the stockpile we’d flown into town last time, so we had to restock.)

It rained so thoroughly that the internet connection was down. We had to entertain ourselves in other ways. My favorite way was coloring (good thing I had 100 crayons on my person), but my second favorite was beating the rest of the team at a rousing game of Texas Hold ‘Em.

Now we’re off to kick some Biomass butt. Vroooooom! (That’s the sound of the ATV carrying us away… though all four of us AND the point frame are going to be on the same ATV, so vr-oo….ooo…OOOmmm…mmm…… might be a more appropriate onomatopoeic representation.)

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